Elise Strong

 

Day 4

Cape of Good Hope

This was our all-day tour down the long peninsula known as the Cape of Good Hope. The day started cloudy and cool, and Elise was a little under the weather, so to speak. Our tour guide, Adeil (pronounced "a deal") was patient and kind waiting for us to decide whether Elise was up to the tour or not. After a little while, Elise acknowledged that she felt good enough to ‘tough it out,’ and so we were off on our guided tour.

We went winding out of Cape Town along the rocky coastal mountains while passing several very nice beaches (e.g., the famous Camp Beach). There is good and bad news here – the bad news is that it was overcast with a low cloud ceiling; the good news is that there was enough visibility to capture the grandeur of the scenery. Our guide did an excellent job of narrating history and facts about the country and surroundings. [Side note: we learned that the ostrich originated in South Africa and was exported to Australia, not the other way around! This was noted as we passed an ostrich farm. Once again, who knew?]

The view from Chapman's Peak back toward Cape Town. That's Table Mountain just left of center totally enshrouded in clouds.

Below left - More coastline from Chapman's Peak. Below right: Across the bay towards Table Mountain, which is invisible in the clouds.

  

As we travelled the vast open spaces of the peninsula with noting but grasses and low bushy vegetation, we were looking for wildlife. Yes, the Cape Town area and this peninsula have some big cats, antelope of several varieties, snakes, baboons, zebras [Side note: the ‘e’ is short like in ‘bed’ not long as in ‘see’, though most of us Americans pronounce it with a long ‘e’], as well as a host of other little varmits … and of course seals on the rocky outcroppings of the shoreline. We saw some antelope (the big ones) from a distance and some wild ostriches up close.

 

When we got to the Cape of Good Hope (the southern tip of Africa) we walked the rough shoreline where waves were crashing into the rocks. 

    

We drove up a long hill to a parking lot, then got on a funicular (i.e., tram) to go further up the hill, and then had to walk up a trail/steps to the lighthouse where the scenery was great, even with the cloud cover.

  

At this point, I have to acknowledge that Elise was being a real trooper. Though not at her best, she went along as best she could.

After the lighthouse we went to Boulders Beach to see an enclave of penguins that are unique to the SA southwest coast. The cute little guys and gals (as they are known) strut around, sit on their nest eggs and body surf in the small waves of this little bay. After that, we went to Simon’s Town for lunch at the Harborview Restaurant, which had the biggest piece of fried hake and French fries, but they resist calling it fish and chips, and a view that … well the name says it all. Lots of sailboats!

    

Then we were on to the Botanical Gardens. OK, this was the biggest surprise of all. What a beautiful (i.e., more than lovely) piece of land. Nestled at the back end of Table Mountain, the flora was amazing, the walking trails relaxing, the flowing waters from the mountain peacefully gurgling by us, and some exotic, colorful birds delighted us. 

Adeil was especially helpful navigating this enormous garden, and in one hour+ we saw only a fraction of it. Of particular note: a male cycad tree (encephalartos woodii) which is the only living representative of its species in the wild. Since cycad trees need a male and female tree to bear flowers and fruit, there is no chance of reproduction of the tree. It looks like a palm tree but it is not in that family. The tree is carefully guarded with fencing and motion sensors since it is the last of its kind in nature. Genetic engineering may help here someday, but for now robust efforts are in place to keep this cycad alive and well.

There was also a cadre of colorful birds flitting amongst the beautiful flowers (remember it's winter and there are still lots of flowers blooming!) We all agreed that the Botanical Garden was the highlight of the day. Words cannot describe its splendor and beauty. We also agreed that Elise, who was feeling better in the afternoon (she did not eat lunch at Harborview), was the star of the day. She was so stoic and cooperative with the tour despite her unsettled condition. THANKS ELISE!!!!

   

After our visit, we returned to the hotel to relax and regroup before dinner. I must note that each evening when I return to my room on the second floor, just below is a public area where groups of singers and dancers gather for street performances. I will say that they are loud, percussive, rhythmic but repetitive. The first time we heard and saw them it was very cool. The second time was OK, the third time and beyond was just a lot of noise (apologies to any African tribal music lovers).

Dinner was simple at Tiger's Milk where we had pizza and sandwiches. Elise was able to eat some bread and drink a Sprite. Connor capped the night off with a KitKat milkshake.